What to Know lowering Your Jeep Grand Cherokee!

Posted by Chad Peters on

 

Since we get this call daily I finally decided to get this up public. I hope it helps everyone get their stuff dialed in and gives everyone a better idea as to what is going on with lowering a Jeep and helping them understand what they need to buy to correct all the issues if any with Camber or Toe.

It Seems like the OEM finally caught up with what we have been preaching for years. The OEM Specs put out by the OEM are not Realistic.

So the front of all Springs go back into spec that we now know is a fact!!

The Jeep Front alignment Specs had been Negative 1.1 & 2.1 on the Fronts.

Now they are 1.4 & 2.5 on the Passenger side and 1.1 & 2.2 on the drivers side.

This places all the wk2 front lowering springs back into spec.

(Sheets are Below for reference)

Here is an Alignment Sheet from 2018 Check the Front Right Suggested Range and also compare to the Sheet below from 2013 how things have changed!

2013 Alignment sheet.

 

The Swift Drop Go Back into Camber Spec!!

With all of this Said the Extreme Rears should be the only Spring out of Spec.

The Rear Adjustable Arms are used for the Extreme springs at a 2.8 Rear Drop (Most Extreme Springs Out their For Now) The Extremes should be the only Drop Needing Rear arms.

FYI: Mopar/Eibach go into spec that's a fact if your Shop can't get it we probably suggest trying a new shop after a few failed attempts to correct your Camber. Their is no point arguing with a shop who can't get you back into spec with these two springs.

We have seen GREAT success in Suggesting people find a new shop to take a stab at correcting their camber if the current shop they are at can not get their camber back into spec. 99% of the times this does the trick and the customers moves on happy!

The reason we know shops don't do their Jobs and a sign you should find a new alignment shop.

Let's put it this way Mopar springs can be put in your finance when your buying a car. Mopar/Chrysler can not ruin your shocks, camber or wear your tires prematurely. (Hence why I think we seen a spec change they were not realistic before) This is how we know a Shop is not doing their job if your out of Spec on a Mopar or Eibach Spring.

 Where I feel the Truck should be set!

 I have no issue seeing 2 Degrees on a top heavy High performance vehicle (Jeep WK2).  We don't ever recommend going down the road all squared up Negative 1.8 or less especially in a Trackhawk. I would say 2 Degrees is going to be the best performance since most come out of the factory 1.8-2.1 we feel 2 Degrees is a good compromise.

So What Springs are best for you?
OEM Spec noting changes Eibach/Mopar same stuff.
Low with only minimal changes Rear only Mid, Extreme, Swift

Ride Quality.

Soft-Stiff=0-10

OEM- Let's give them a 5 in ride quality and a 6-7 in sport Mode

Swifts-Liniar Springs- These will be the softest of the group but with Superior rebound and recovery. 
These springs prefer load so that makes them a great spring to launch since they recover fast.
I would give Swift springs a 6-7 since they are almost like Sport mode full time. These also retain some of the OEM bunce/jiggle. These are Not back breaker's at all when hitting Potholes.

Mids and Extremes- Both Progressive Springs- Both retain the OEM bounce as Sport mode does with the OEM springs. 
These both may be a fraction stiffer than sport mode.
I would give Mids a 7 with some bounce/jiggle they shine in sport mode. 
Extremes I give a 7-8 Mix.( How the Jeep Should have come off the lot)Sport mode again is where our Springs Shine.

Eibach/Mopar- LIniar Springs Both a lot stiffer.
Remember above these go into finance when you buy a vehicle The OEM does not want to mess with camber, abnormal tire or shock wear.
I would give these a 9-10 in comfort as they are by far the least forgiving little to no bounce very stiff. We call them the "Back Breaker's" little to no control when beating on a top heavy vehicle down the road in fact a certain bounce leaning can be very scary. We only refer these to people who want to keep the OEM warranty in place. We feel that's their place in the market! Eibachs lack of comfort and control issues is actually what pushed us to create the Road Magnets and Swift line of springs. Let's also not forget we have seen 2 eibachs snap under pressure we haven't ever seen a snapped spring but it's just amazing 2 sets of eibachs that "we know of to date" completely snapped a coil. We don't recommend these in any aftermarket High Performance instance with this track record! We have since taken them off our site completely we don't want to see anyone hurt and will not hide these customers for Eibach any further.

NOTES: Abnormal Bouncing is the first sign of shock failure. We look at a few things to determine if it's the shock/strut or spring and very seldom it's the springs no matter the brand. We have sold over 4,000+ sets sold worldwide in 7 years and have only seen a handful of shock failure on Jeep WK2 may be 20-25 worldwide.

We work with anyone getting their suspension tied together and dialed in. Please call 239.691.7515 or email Sales@Blackopsautoworks.com we can help you understand what's going on.

Any mistakes here will be changed because I'm sure we may have made a few.

Work was done by West coast Auto Service Thanks fellas!!! Anyone in So Cal these guys do a Bang up Job!!

 

 


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1 comment

Created on Posted by James Bennett Comment Link

I read the article about lowering my Suv but am still not sure what direction I should go in reguards to lowering my GC. I have a 2014 Grand Cherokee Overland with the 5.7 with no mods as of yet. I would really like to get a pretty dramatic drop if possible without suffering to much ride comfort (I understand I will give up some comfort when lowering). Just hoping I could get some advise and direction on what you think my best course of action would be. Tying to build a Christmas wish list for the Mrs!

Thanks for any help you can offer.

James


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